A Different Kind of Desert

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Luis and Viridiana Lopez of Rancheros Carniceria of Mammoth.

Luis and Viridiana Lopez of Rancheros Carniceria of Mammoth.

By Linda Lyon

  For those who’ve never lived in a desert, the word likely conjures up a picture of a vast wasteland of shifting sands void of water and the life sustained by it. Residents of the Sonoran Desert know that life is abundant in the high desert. Unfortunately, grocery stores are one of the things that aren’t abundant, especially in the Tri-Community area. This lack of ready access (within 10 miles) to a supermarket or large grocery store, combined with a poverty level of 20 percent or higher describes another kind of desert – a “food desert.” Technically, only Mammoth with 24.5 percent of its residents living below the poverty line (as of 2014 data), meets the full definition. But San Manuel at 18.6 percent and Oracle at 17.9 percent aren’t far off.

  The United States Department of Agriculture (USDA) defines food deserts as “urban neighborhoods and rural towns without ready access to fresh, healthy, and affordable food” and reports that more than 23 million Americans live in one.  Arizona has more than 4,000 food deserts and with 13.6 percent of Arizonans living in one, far exceeds the national average of 4.8 percent of people residing in such areas.

  Food deserts aren’t only inconvenient; they present significant health concerns. The processed foods carried by more readily available convenience stores are typically high in fat, sugar and sodium and research shows that regular consumption of such foods can lead to obesity, shortened lifespan, heart disease and diabetes. These outcomes are especially prevalent among higher poverty residents forced not only to make do with less healthy options, but also pay higher prices for them.

  And although access is key, it isn’t the only challenge since parents who aren’t raised on fresh fruits and vegetables are unlikely to seek it for their children. But, it is the first step, and Arizona’s Department of Health Services (AZ DHS) is addressing it with their Arizona Health Improvement Plan.  Potential solutions include: partnering with local stores to offer healthier options, farms, Community Supported Agriculture (CSA), food recovery program, food hubs, mobile food markets, and community gardens.

  Several such solutions are underway in the town of Oracle. The Oracle Women’s Network initiated The Learning Garden, a concept designed to teach people how to garden, help with a place to grow food, and share time and knowledge between neighbors. They had 30 or so people attend the first meeting this month and many good ideas were discussed. In addition to repurposing Liberty Park (the old skateboard park) as the community garden, they discussed developing an orchard. A committee of residents headed by Linda Leigh is now working with Pinal County Parks and Open Spaces to bring the concept to fruition (pun intended). The County is prepared to lease the park to the community for $1 per year for 10 years and provide startup funds and water subsidies. Linda is excited about the potential the community garden brings, but her primary concern at this point is to ensure community support for the garden is sustainable. Assuming the committee deems that support sufficient, they hope to break ground and plant carrots this coming March. Eventually, she hopes the garden can sell produce to pay for the liability insurance and water it will require. They also plan to approach the Oracle School District about a collaboration.

  In the meantime, both Sue & Jerry’s Trading Post and the Patio Cafe are trying to help “deliver the goods.” The Oracle Farmers Market at Sue & Jerry’s Trading Post, is open Wednesdays from 5 to 8 p.m. April through October, and offers specialty food, live music, fresh baked goods, produce, eggs, breads, jellies and jams, as well as garden plants and herbs. Owner Sue Parra said she’d like to offer more fruits and vegetables in the future. (A small farmers market is held on Saturday mornings at the San Manuel Presbyterian Church.)

David Raneri of Oracle Patio Cafe and Market

David Raneri of Oracle Patio Cafe and Market

  The Patio Café carries a variety of packaged and fresh food items to include herbs, fruits and vegetables. They also offer meats and organic and gluten free items. The owners, David and Stacy Raneri, are committed to providing good food in a friendly atmosphere, but have also wanted for sometime to ensure the availability of fresh produce and other healthy groceries for the Oracle community. When the Oracle Market was originally run by GDI Corporation and then shuttered in 2012, David said he tried to buy the building from the Darimont family but was not willing to put his house up for collateral. The Darimonts then stepped up and ran the store until they were forced to close it again. The Raneris decided to give another go at buying the property. They obtained a USDA grant to fund initial labor costs along with a loan from the agency to pay for stocking the shelves. Unfortunately, they were unable to find a bank that would provide them a mortgage. So, they converted part of their dining room into a market of their own. In David’s words, part of what their market does is “redistribute excess produce.” Many of their providers David said, are local growers with whom he barters – tomatoes in exchange for a meal for example. The arrangement seems to be working well and offers another option for healthy eating in the town.

Produce case at Rancheros Carniceria in Mammoth.

Produce case at Rancheros Carniceria in Mammoth.

  In Mammoth, residents are fortunate to have expanded variety with more coming. Luis Lopez and his wife Viridiana own and run Rancheros Carniceria Meat Market. Located next to the town’s Circle K, the market is currently about 1,200 square feet and will be soon be expanded to about 3,800 just down the road. Luis said the primary reason for the move is so he can provide more produce for the community. The Market currently has one refrigerated produce case and the expansion will allow for three produce dry tables and one 12 foot wet case. Since there are only a couple of vendors that deliver to the store though, Luis is forced to make runs into Tucson five days a week to fill his cases and shelves. His meat vendor delivers Angus Blue Ribbon beef from Utah, but he said he is also exploring selling some locally sourced meat.

  There is one additional downside to shopping for groceries in Mammoth. In September 2015, the town council implemented a food (for home consumption) sales tax of 4 percent (the max that can be charged). Raising revenue is no doubt tough in a depressed area, but this consumption tax is another hardship in a town 27 miles to a major grocery store.

  Speaking of major grocery stores, the long promised Fry’s at the entrance to Eagle Crest Ranch and SaddleBrooke is now scheduled to break ground in February of 2017 with an opening in the first quarter of 2018. Brian Harpel, Director of Development for The Pederson Group, said the store was originally scheduled to be built this year, but a representative from the Fry’s Corporation contacted his group in early September to say that budgetary issues required postponement of four deals in Arizona. When asked whether the store will be one of the big Marketplace designs, Brian said it won’t be the biggest store, but “the 78,000 square foot store will have very similar amenities.” Although the addition of this store, five miles further north than Bashas’ won’t do much to alleviate the “food desert” reality of the Tri-Community area, it will undoubtedly improve convenience, access, and options for many that live in the region.

  For now, Tri-community area residents are forced to make the best of their lack of ready access to grocery stores. Many obviously feel the benefits of living in their beautiful area and relatively safe communities outweigh the hardships.  As growth continues to move North, so will conveniences, but until then, it is encouraging that there are residents in their communities committed to helping those who don’t have other options. Neighbors helping neighbors after all, has always been an American value.

Staff (5796 Posts)

There are news or informational items frequently written by staff or submitted to the Copper Basin News, San Manuel Miner, Superior Sun, Pinal Nugget or Oracle Towne Crier for inclusion in our print or digital products. These items are not credited with an author.


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